George & Mostyn - Walking the GR10

Wednesday, 18th June 2008

Mostyn:This was a magical day. The couple managing the Refuge arrived at 8.00 am to make our breakfast. They also had their breakfast at the Refuge. Outside there was not a cloud in the sky, the first time since we arrived over a week ago. It was definitely a "shorts day". From outside we were able to see the ski centre on one side and the fantastic view of the mountains on the other side. Views we could not see yesterday. The picture was completed by a few light clouds down in the valley. Most of our kit had dried, so we packed up and paid the bill. We set off up wide, nursery slopes, climbing about 100 m. We then headed out cross-country, over very rough terrain. There was a flat limestone area, which was eroded with deep fissures between the pavement-type rocks. At this height, 1700 m, there were pockets of snow, which did not present any problems to us. We wound our way along a valley and up to a breche, from where the views were unbelievable - snow capped peaks and the valley below.

The descent was steep at first and gravely. There was a refuge in the valley and en route to it we met an Englishman, complete with rolled umbrella. He said he was doing the entire GR10 walk - coast to coast - and that he was halfway through his second stage of the day. At the Refuge there were a number of day-walkers having a picnic. On our descent through the forest a team of supply donkeys passed us. We continued for about 3 km through the trees on an undulating path, which meant that we lost no height.

After this section we began to lose height rapidly. The roads and paths were covered with deep mud after the all the rain and it was obvious that the paths had been used by cattle. You can imagine the state they were in. We eventually arrived at the gite, which was run by the owner of the adjoining Hotel. Our boots had to be left in the garage.

The hotel didn't serve dinner, so after our shower we went to a nearby bar/restaurant for a meal. Our plan was to have an early night. However this was thwarted by the Englishman who we had met earlier. He found it impossible to speak quietly and the entire gite could hear what he had to say. Unable to put up with it any longer, I shouted down the stairs, asking him to speak quietly because there were people trying to sleep. He quietened down for about a minute and he was back to his annoying volume.